Explain the science behind ocean surfing and share quick tips for surfing beginners.
视频信息
答案文本
视频字幕
Ocean waves are created when wind transfers its energy to the water surface.
The size and power of waves depend on three main factors: wind speed, the distance the wind
blows over water called fetch, and how long the wind blows. As wind moves across the ocean,
it creates ripples that grow into waves, carrying energy across vast distances.
As waves travel toward shore and enter shallow water, they undergo a dramatic transformation.
The bottom of the wave slows down due to friction with the seabed, while the top continues at its original speed.
This causes the wave to become steeper and steeper until the crest outruns the base and the wave breaks,
releasing its energy in a spectacular display of white water.
To catch a wave, surfers must paddle hard to match the wave's speed just before it breaks.
Once the wave's energy begins pushing the board forward, the surfer pops up and uses their balance
and the board's design to ride within the breaking part of the wave. The fins and shape of the board
help control direction and stability as the surfer harnesses the wave's forward momentum.